Etsuko Scholz's Special Fried Chicken

Etsuko Scholz was born in Tokyo and grew up on carefully rendered versions of traditional Japanese dishes, particularly its delicate tempura. After marrying an American businessman, she moved with him from Japan to Redmond, Wash., where she taught English as a second language to fellow Japanese transplants, raised three children, and pined for the ingredients — and the skill — to make the meals that she grew up eating.

"Teriyaki and tempura in Japanese restaurants in this country are aimed at American tastes," she says. "Sauces are sweeter, and the vegetables in the tempura are different. To get the true comfort foods of my home, I need to make them myself."
In a curious turn of fate, her son’s work eventually took him back to Tokyo — along with his three children. When she sees her grandchildren — they stay with her during summer vacation and she travels to see them at least once a year — one of Etsuko's favorite things to do with her eldest grandchild, Yukiko, a 7-year-old girl, is to play "restaurant." Etsuko serves as chef while Yukiko writes the menu, takes orders from her customers (usually grandpa) and serves the meal.

Just as she longed for the flavor of Japan, her grandchildren ask for food with an American touch: especially, her cross-cultural fried chicken — strips of chicken breasts breaded in panko, a Japanese breading made from light, crispy rice crackers. In Japan, this crispy chicken makes a wonderful lunch for the bento box that her grandchildren carry to school. In the United States, the chicken, along with shredded cabbage, spicy Japanese mustard, lemon wedges, and tonkatsu sauce that can be purchased at Asian markets (or substitute with a sauce made of equal parts Worcestershire sauce and ketchup, makes a fine late summer picnic (and leftovers make one mean sandwich).

Etsuko's Fried Chicken

4 chicken breasts, boneless and skinless, sliced into strips 1/4-inch thick
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons flour
2 eggs
1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) or 1 cup French breadcrumbs
Canola oil for frying

1. Lightly dust the chicken strips with salt and pepper. Place flour in a paper bag with the chicken and shake to distribute evenly. Lightly beat the eggs in a wide, shallow bowl. Dip the chicken strips in the egg wash and then in the panko or French breadcrumbs, also in a wide, shallow bowl.

2. Heat 1 inch of canola oil in a wok or large skillet to 340 to 350 degrees F. (Etsuko checks the temperature of the oil by inserting a wooden chopstick. If little bubbles form around the chopstick, the oil is ready.)

3. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pan, fry the strips until golden brown, turning once.